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- Things to do in France

 Route Richard the Lion Haert    Article posted by FRENCH INFO

The Route of Richard the Lionheart is a trail of 19 castles, churches and important sites in the life of the famous King as it relates to South West France.

Richard was an Angevin king, a Plantagenet, who spoke no English, only French and Limousin (The langue d’Oc), and who spent only six months of his reign in England, a place he found cold and wet. His empire lay from the Scottish border to the Dordogne, and by the time he became King he was under threat from King Phillippe-Auguste of France in the North, and Raymond of Toulouse in the South. Philippe, Raymond and Richard were all obliged to Crusade against Saladin. The crusades after the late 1000s were an attempt to ensure the Holy Land was in Christian hands by the time of the imminent second coming, which was expected as a result of the passing of the First Millennium.  His other problem - as for other kings of the time - was with powerful local nobles throughout his lands who needed to be kept on side, especially in the Limousin.

When Richard set off on the crusade with the French King Philippe-Auguste, the regional overlords took the opportunity to strengthen their defences against his return. The line of fortified towns and castles which run from Etagnac to Pompadour to the south-west of Limoges form the route of Richard the Lion Heart. The route also links the places which formed the backdrop to his life here.

If you set off from Etagnac you can visit the Chateau de Rochebrune, then on to Rochechouart where the original castle was rebuilt in Renaissance style in the 15th Century. The castle was sacked during the French Revolution but was restored and now houses the Museum of Contemporary Art.

Your next stop is the Church of Les Salles at Lavauguyon, an example of Romanesque architecture which houses some fine 12th Century Frescoes. Then onto Chateau de Brie, at Oradour-sur Vayre, a fortified manor built in the 1500s in gothic style.

A short distance away is the marvellously preserved 12 century castle of Montbrun, built mainly after Richard’s time, although the square stone keep would have been familiar to him. It is surrounded by a moat and situated in a lush green valley. From his death bed Richard ordered an attack on the Chateau, having heard that there was treasure here.

Next on the route is Chalus, it is here in 1199 that the lord of Montbrun put up a fierce resistance to Richard's mighty army, who were was wreaking vengeance on the Viscounts of Limoges for their support of Philip Augustus. During the siege of the castle Richard was wandering around the perimeter without his chain mail. He was laughing at one of the defenders who was deflecting arrows with a large frying pan, when he was shot by a bolt from a defender’s crossbow. He died later from his wounds in his mother’s arms. Parts of the original castle still stand next to the ruins of the 11th Century Romanesque church where Richard the Lion Heart’s remains are said to be buried.

After Chalus comes Les Cars; now in ruins (it was razed to the ground during the French revolution), although remains of the former fortified and Renaissance castle can be seen, a classic chateau of the Twelfth Century Renaissance.

Chateau de Nexon, the 12th Century castle now houses the town hall. Whilst at Nexon also visit the 19th Century stud farm and park which are open all year round and with free entry.

Lastours; also in ruins is the 12th Century keep of Lastours. From the 10th Century the Lastours family was one of the most powerful in the County of Limoges.

Le Chalard; Here you can see the Monk's tombs. The Monastery of St Augustine, famous for its fortified Romanesque church, and cemetery of 40 medieval monks’ tombs, was founded by St Geoffroy (1060-1125) who became a hermit. A rich abbey on the ancient gold-road in the Dordogne (where gold seams were mined) it was fortified, to defend itself and the local village, in the late 12^th century against Richard the Lionheart.,

Chateau de Jumilhac-le-Grand; Jumilhac, just inside the Dordogne border, was coveted by the Lion Heart as coins were minted there. At St-Yriex-la-Perche; renowned for its porcelain and kaolin, there is a superb 12th century collegiate church. The local community withstood the attentions of both the viscounts of Limoges and the King and saw themselves as vassals only of the Vatican.

Coussac Bonneval; The original 11th Century fortress was destroyed in the Hundred Years war, rebuilt in the 15th Century and updated throughout the 17th and 18th Centuries. The Bonneval family has lived here for over six centuries. The Chateau is sumptuously furnished with an inner courtyard of Italian inspiration.

Segur Le Chateau is officially one of France's most beautiful villages; Segur is built along the banks of the Auvezere, below the imposing ruins of its castles. It is a beautiful mediaeval town - formerly part of the duchy of Aquitaine but captured from the Plantagenets in 1177 and pillaged on the death of Richard the Lionheart.

Finally, the Chateau of Pompadour a historically significant seat of power since Roman times; this fortress, owned by the Lastours family was burned down in approximately 1200 following the death of Richard the Lionheart. It was rebuilt in the 14^th, 15^th and 16^th centuries and is a beautiful castle in its own right.